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Refuge of the Roads

Chronicling my 5,000-mile drive from Anchorage, Alaska, to Portland, Maine

This Must Be the Place

Portland, Maine — Day Twelve

I’m home.

I’ve been here since Monday night, but I haven’t had a moment to spare until now, with all the chores and distractions of “settling in.” And yet, the more significant part of “settling in” — the psychological adoption of this place as my new home — has been totally seamless, as if I didn’t just uproot myself and drive across the continent to get here. This feels like the home that I’ve been searching for and, at the same time, the one I’ve always known. Continue reading “This Must Be the Place”

Familiar Territory

Fenwick, Connecticut — Day Eleven

(OK, spoiler alert: I’m in Portland now and everything is fantastic. But the past two days were way too busy for me to write anything, so I’ll just cover my time in Connecticut with this post and tell you all about Portland in my next one.)

Continue reading “Familiar Territory”

Bridges and Borders

Kitchener, Ontario — Day Ten

As I drove over the Mackinac Bridge yesterday, my trusty Subaru reached another milestone — it’s now driven through one of the longest tunnels in the world (in Whittier, Alaska) and across one of the longest suspension bridges in the world.

Continue reading “Bridges and Borders”

Say Yes! To Michigan!

Saint Ignace, Michigan — Day Nine

The first thing I heard when I woke up this morning was Alaska State Troopers radio traffic — the same kinds of dispatches I heard all day, every day at the ADN from the scanner next to my desk. A Matcom dispatcher in the Valley was talking about an 11-19 (fight) somewhere along Bogard Road.

But I was in bed. What?

Continue reading “Say Yes! To Michigan!”

Detour / Happy Canada Day!

Faribault, Minnesota — Day Eight

I’d originally planned to stop in Duluth, Minnesota, last night, but took a detour to see my brother Conor. He’s living on a farm owned by a Zen priest in southern Minnesota.

Continue reading “Detour / Happy Canada Day!”

A Town Called Forget

Minot, North Dakota — Day Seven

On the flat, straight road across Saskatchewan, the eastern sky grew dark quickly and I realized I was driving straight into a huge thunderstorm. It looked like “The Wizard of Oz.”

Continue reading “A Town Called Forget”

Traveling in Some Vehicle, Sitting in Some Cafe

Saskatoon, Saskatchewan — Day Six

As I was walking around Edmonton yesterday, looking up at the reflections of clouds in the glass office towers, I was reminded of my favorite lyric: a stanza from the mystical, daydreamy title track on “Hejira.” It’s one of the finest, most masterful uses of the English language I’ve ever heard.

Continue reading “Traveling in Some Vehicle, Sitting in Some Cafe”

From the Mountains to the Prairies

Edmonton, Alberta — Day Five

Things are moving so quickly now it’s getting very hard to remember what’s been happening, which is why I’m glad I’m keeping this blog. I’d probably forget half the things I’m seeing and doing on this trip if I weren’t.

Continue reading “From the Mountains to the Prairies”

Joni, Joan, Stieg

Fort Saint John, British Columbia — Day Four

While my first three days on the road were spectacularly eventful, yesterday wasn’t quite as exciting. Luckily, I had some very good company. Continue reading “Joni, Joan, Stieg”

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